Water Turtle Care Sheet
Introduction and Basic Setups

Note: For box turtles, refer to the box turtle care sheet. For mud
      turtles, see the mud turtle notes below. For softshells, see
      the notes on softshells below.

Note: The setups described here will generally work for most water
      turtles. However, it is imperative that you know the species of
      animal you have (if you send me a picture or a good description,
      I'll be happy to help with identification) so that you can take
      into account the special needs for each species.

Is a Turtle the Right Pet for You?
==================================

Of course, if you pick up a turtle from the road, or a friend drops
off a turtle at your house, or you end up with a turtle unexpectedly 
for some other reason, this question is almost futile. But only
almost. If you have been blessed with a turtle, and you decide you
cannot fulfill all its needs for whatever reasons, you may want to
consider adopting out. Many herp societies have adoption programs, and
Turtle Homes is a wonderful adoption organization 
(ttp://www.turtlehomes.org).

Here are some things you might consider before getting a turtle. 
Also, take the test on the home page to find out what's involved in
keeping a turtle happy and healthy. 


* Turtles are not Ninja Turtles. They will not perform tricks, talk, or
  perform heroic deeds. They don't eat pizza either. Some turtles like
  to have their head or shells stroked, but many of them don't like to
  be held or touched. Water turtles are primarily a look-at pet. They
  will learn to recognize you, though; they will lose their fear; and
  they will eat from your fingers (sometimes including your fingers :-)
  if you are patient and consistent in your care.

* Turtles live 40 and more years. Are you willing to take on a long-term
  commitment? Or if you think you will only have the turtle for some time,
  are you willing to look for a good new home for it when you cannot keep
  it any longer? It is very difficult to find a home for a turtle that has
  become too large, especially for red-eared sliders. Do not get a turtle
  if you are not willing to accomodate it throughout its life. 

* Turtles grow throughout their life. Do you have space available?
  A slider needs at least a 20 gallon tank to be happy at a younger
  age and a bigger tank as an adult. Expect to invest in a 40 gallon
  tank for most turtles, and some females get too big to keep indoors.
  Outdoor setups can be constructed easily, as simply as a children's
  wading pool, but they need to be in a safe place, secure from predators.
  Do you have a room where you can keep such a tank or an outdoor setup?

* Do you have time to take proper care of your turtle? It takes about
  1 hour a week to thoroughly clean the enclosure, and about 10 minutes
  a day to feed and observe your animal. This is not counting the occasional
  visit to the vet. Also, I would hope you'd like to spend more time than
  this with your chosen companion animal.

* Are you willing to afford a turtle? Food will cost 10-20 dollars 
  a month, depending on what you are feeding. An initial setup will
  cost you at least 50.-, but probably more. (For an indoor setup most of
  this money goes for the fluorescent reptile light - the rest can be improvised).
  (Refer to page on minimal setups for help with low-cost starter setups.)
  Budget about 2 dollars a day for one animal. This budget includes food,
  housing, veterinary bills, and miscellaneous expenses. You will find
  that often you will incur extra expenses when you want to make life
  even better for your animals. On the other hand, you can save considerably
  in the long run by providing a healthy setup and balanced diet.

* Even though most turtles are cheap to buy, when they get sick, they
  can cost as much as a cat or dog to heal. Are you willing to pay vet
  bills for the animal when it gets sick? Though turtles suffer mostly
  silently, they feel pain just as other creatures. Once you take an
  animal and it becomes a pet, you are fully responsible for it.
  To give you an idea of cost: An annual checkup which includes an exam,
  evaluation of husbandry, and a fecal exam will cost between $50-100.
  If your animal gets sick beacuse of a dietary problem or an infection
  (most common causes), the bills can quickly run up to several hundred
  dollars for vet visits and medications. If you can't afford at least
  one vet visit a year, consider a different reptile that is easier to
  keep, as for example a corn snake, which is available in many stunning
  color varieties.
 
* What about diseases? -- Wild caught turtles usually carry parasites.
  Captive bread turtles often do, too. Many of these organisms are 
  harmless to the turtle and most do not transmit people. (However, if
  the parasite load in a turtle is high, or if a turtle carries parasites
  than can harm it, then it has to be treated.) 
  Many reptiles, including turtles, carry salmonella (in the same way
  that most people carry E.coli in their digestive system--it never harms them).
  Salmonella can be dormant and a negative test is no guarantee that there
  is no salmonella. However, it is a good idea to take any new turtle to
  a veterinarian and have it checked for parasites.

  You are much, much more likely to get salmonella from chicken and eggs
  than from reptiles. However, since all it takes is basic hygene to
  prevent potential contamination, 
  ALWAYS wash your hands with soap after
  handling turtles, the water they are in, or any of the cage accessories. 
  Clean turtle enclosures and prepare turtle foods away from places that
  are used for human food preparation.
  Strictly enforce hand-washing for children. If
  you have young children, don't let them handle the turtles, and
  especially don't let them stick turtles into their mouth. Don't kiss
  your turtles, either!
  (Note that dogs, cats, other animals, and humans also carry 
  diseases and parasites. It's a good idea to wash your hands after
  playing with a dog or cat, or after shaking hands with a stranger
  who has a runny nose!)


Before You Get a Turtle
=======================

* Read about your potential pet, talk to people who keep turtles, and
  join one of several mailing lists about turtles, like the ones maintained
  by Turtle Homes or the Tortoise Trust.

* Prepare a species-appropriate setup for your animal, buy some food, and decide
  where the enclosure will be place. I know, most of the time we get the animal
  first and then we need to set it up. If you have the luxury to do the
  setup first, don't hesitate.

* Join or at least visit one of the herpetological societies in your
  area. Not only is it fun to meet people with the same interests,
  they will also become a valuable source of information when the questions
  come. And questions there will be; no two turtles are the same, and a FAQ
  or a book can only provide for the general cases. You may want
  to consider subscribing a reptile magazine like "Reptiles".

* Decide where you want to get the animal from. Considering that turtles
  in the wild are declining, it is recommended that you not catch an
  animal from the wild. If you have access to captive bred turtles, 
  get a captive bred turtle. They also tend to be healthier and happier in
  captivity. Consider adopting a turtle from a local shelter or from
  Turtle Homes. There are many unwanted turtles that need new homes. 

Some Common Water Turtle Species 
================================

There is no way this FAQ can describe all species available  in the
pet trade or in the wild. These are some of the species that are kept
more commonly, and that I have experience with.

* Red-eared slider (Chrysemys scripta elegans and related species)
  The common green turtle with the red cheeks (and some similar slider
  turtles that don't have the cheek markings).
  Slider turtles are native to the United States and common in the South-east.
  There are many related species that can be kept in the same way as
  red eared sliders, for example Cooters and Chicken turtles.
  Sliders are mostly carnivorous when young and become more and more
  vegetarian as they grow older. If they are kept under proper conditions,
  they make hardy pets. While sliders get rather tame, they also have a
  good bite! Adult male sliders may have to get separated during breeding
  season. Females get much bigger than males. Sliders can be kept outside
  all summer in temperate climate. Since females get large, be prepared to
  build a pond or acquire a large tank in the future.
  The little 1-dollar turtles sold on the street are usually sliders. 

* Reeves turtle (Chinemys reevesi). This species is known in Southern China,
  southern Korea, and Japan. It is a small species and reaches maturity at
  around 5-8 inches. The carapace is parallel-sided, moderately domed, with
  three strong keels. The carapace scutes are usually brown.The plastron is
  generally yellow with brown blotches which can cover almost the whole
  belly. The head often has yellow or olive stripes which can fade in older
  specimens
      Reeves turtles are susceptible to shell disease. They must be kept in
  very clean water. When you buy an animal, thoroughly check it for rot.
  Many imported specimens have the problem. Because of the depletion of 
  Asian turtles, and the big parasite loads many of these turtles carry, 
  look for a captive-bred Reeves turtle. 
      Reeves turtles mostly are carnivorous, but they do take pellet food.
  Because of the susceptibility to shell problems, it is imperative that
  a good basking place with plenty of UV light is provided.
  This is a marvelous turtle, but I wouldn't recommend it for beginners.

* Softshell turtles
  Softshells spend their whole live in the water. There are many species,
  some native to the United States, some to Asia. 
  Primarly, they all get pretty large and they need a lot of room to swim.
  They like to bury in gravel or sand. Softshells are carnivorous. They
  don't get very tame but are beautiful to watch swimming! Their water
  needs to be kept very clean. I don't think they make good beginner's
  turtles. Look for a detailed care sheet before you acquire a softshell
  turtle.

* Mud turtles
  Many mud turtles make excellent pets. They can be kept similarly to sliders, but
  depending on the species more land and shallower water should be provided.
  They are hardy fellows that become quite tame. They are mostly meat-eaters.
  Depending on their climate of origin, they can be kept outside in summer.
  They don't get very big, which is a plus for most people who just would
  like to "have a turtle". There are many species of mud turtles. Before you
  acquire one, look up detailed care information on the species you are getting.

* Snapping turtles
  In some states snapping turtles are illegal to keep. They are very
  hardy and interesting animals, and they do well in captivity and they
  can get quite tame. Alligator snappers reacho 60 and more pounds. Don't
  get one, unless you are ready to build a pond.

* Diamond Back Terrapins
  These beautiful turtles are not for beginners. They have very specific
  water and dietary requirements.
 

Basic Indoor Setup for Slider Turtles (and Other Water Turtles)
===============================================================

Note: This is a basic setup. Please, find out what the latin name
of your turtle is and do some research on their specific needs.
Every species of turtle has somewhat different requirements, and 
taking them into account will keep your turtle happier and healthier.

* Every turtle tank should have a swim area and a land area. 
  "Swim area" is water deep enough for the turtle to swim; that is, the water
  must be at least as deep as the turtle's shell is wide, and the area must
  be big enough for the turtle to swim comfortably. For most water turtles,
  if kept indoors, the water must be heated (temperature varies with species).
  
  For strong swimmers, like sliders, the water can be much deeper. For mud
  turtles, the turtle should be able to reach the surface while standing
  on its hind legs. As for how much water? Use common sense. If it looks
  crowded and tight, then the turtle will probably feel that way, too.
  
  "Land area" refers to an area above water line, at the minimum big enough
  for the turtle to sit on. Some of the land area should be heated to about
  85-90F (using a lamp, for example) for basking. Turtles that are very
  aquatic do fine with a piece of wood or a rock under a heat lamp; while
  semi-aquatic turtles do better with a larger land area that allows them
  to move around and choose a variety of temperatures.

* A minimum indoor setup for a small turtle consists of:
    20 gallon aquarium or similar container (a 10 gallon tank is too small
    for anything but a baby turtle!!)
    Some kind of filtration that is strong enough for a tank that size. 
    An aquarium heater to heat water to about 78-82F, depending on turtle.
    A lamp, with a 40-60W incandescent light bulb, installed to warm 
    basking/land area to 85-90 degrees (or a ceramic bulb for a larger basking
    area and tank) at the warmest spot.
    A UVA/UVB producing fluorescent light (recommended) or vitamin D3
    supplementation. See here!
    Land area, built from bricks, rocks, wooden boards, rocks, where turtle can
    easily climb out.
    A floating aquarium thermometer (not those digital strips; they are not accurate)
    to verify all the temperatures.
    A place to set up the tank away from direct sunlight.


* Substrate: I use no substrate at all in the swim area, just the bare glass bottom of
  the aquarium. It makes maintenance easier, keeps the turtles from swallowing
  anything, and the turtles don't mind. (Many turtles will eat rock or sand
  which can cause constipation/impaction.) Note that softshell turtles do
  need sandy substrate to bury.

* Land: I use a wooden bord or bricks as land areas. That way, the land area
  can be cleaned easily and dries off fast. It is important that the land
  area is dry. Make sure the turtle can climb out.

* Clean: It is important to keep a turtle tank clean, and a functional
  setup helps dramatically. You can use natural rocks and real branches
  instead of a bricks for a basking area. That looks very nice and is still
  easy to clean. 

* Plants: You can add plastic plants for the turtles to hide (reduces stress and
  makes the tank look much prittier). Real plants are nice but get eaten
  within days; so unless you have lots of money or pond where you grow
  plants...

* Decorations: Don't add too many decorations that will impede swimming.
  A few round river rocks make nice, safe decorations.

* Without a filter, change the water at least once a week completely; more
  often if it looks cloudy, dirty. You should use a net to remove feces that
  float around. 
  Scrub the tank with a 10% bleach solution a few times a year. Adding a strong
  aquarium filter reduces the frequency of cleaning. Clean water is
  one of the biggest factor in keeping healthy water turtles. 
  You may want to add one teaspoon of salt per gallon of water to help prevent diseases. 
  I use untreated tap water, and have never had a problem with it; if you
  are concerned, us a water conditioner for aquariums.

* Filters: A Fluval4(tm) submersible filter will keep a 30 gallon tank with
  2 turtles clean for about 14 days. If you want more filter power, or your
  tank is larger, consider getting a canister filter. Your local fish store
  will be able to help you. Get a filter 2-3 times as strong as for a fish tank
  of the same size. (More on filters below.)
  While filters are expensive, what you gain in water quality and work
  reduction is well worth it.

* Keeping the bottom of the tank bare will not only help cleaning, it will
  also prevent turtles from swallowing sand and rocks, which can lead to
  problems (see below).

* (Marvellouse Idea Contributed by The Nevilles) 
  I was reading your page on water turtle setups and wanted to add that I have 
  30 gallon "turtle tank" from all glass aquariums that has one end cut to 1/2 height 
  and fits a power filter without having the water all the way to the top of the tank.

More on Substrate in Tank
=========================

There is some controversy about this subject. No substrate seems to
be the best solution. While it may not look as nice as a gravel
bottom, it prevents some trouble. It also makes cleaning efficient.

Rock ingestion:
Some turtles ingest rocks, from sand grain size to whatever will 
fit into their mouth. Some turtles get intestinal blockage because of it.
Even sand can accumulate and eventually turn into a plug that may need 
to be surgically removed. Turtles that do not have the opportunity 
to ingest sand and rocks live happily. No-one is sure why turtles 
ingest substrate. It does not seem essential to their digestion. They
could even do it, because they are bored.

Turtles with blockages are a lot of trouble (ever tried to give Castor 
Oil to a turtle?) 
If you are worried about the slipperiness of the glass bottom
for turtles that "walk" on the bottom, you could try a piece
of shower mat (the version with the suction cups). This works
well, but debris tends to accumulate under the mat (and gets
not washed through the filter, so you need more water changes).
Or you could use gravel that is so big, that there is no chance it
will fit into a turtle's mouth (like river pebbles; looks very
pretty!)

More on Water Quality, Waste Management, and Filters
====================================================

Water quality is the number one challenge when keeping water turtles.
The ideal to strive for, is a lot of very clean water.

* Change the water as often as you can.
  Imagine, you had to swim in and drink the water!

* Tap water is fine. If you are concerned about chlorine, let the water sit
  for 24 hours before using it or use a water conditioner for
  aquariums.

* How often do you need to change the water? Well, it depends on the
  gallons of water per turtle, and whether you are using a filter. 
  I change the water in the large outdoor tubs once a week, independent of
  how many turtles there are in it (never that many). Indoors every
  10 to 14 days, with a strong filter, depending on how much I have
  been feeding. Some foods soil the water more than others.
  While I use a filter on the indoor tank, I simply change the water
  often outdoors. (It is much easier to dump a tub full of water
  onto the grass than to pump it into the bathroom sink.)

* Give your turtle as much space as you can possibly afford. In
  this case, larger is always better. Custom made glass tanks are
  affordable. (Negotiate price and features, when you talk to a sales
  rep. Often extra features like screen tops, which you don't need
  for turtles, will make things a lot more expensive.)
  Plexiglass tanks are nice but a lot more expensive.

* Turtles produce two kinds of waste: visible and invisible. 
  The visible solids can (and should) be removed with a net
  (available at aquarium stores - don't use the same net for your
  fish!), especially larger pieces, before they fall apart.
  Invisible waste, must be dealt with by frequent water changes
  and filtration.

* Disintegrating waste produces ammonia. Ammonia (the stuff that
  is in Ajax!) is bad for people, and it is bad for turtles.
  It makes them sick, and it can make their skin and shell root.
  It can be difficult to have no ammonia (it is possible),
  but you can minimize it. Use an aquarium testing kit to measure
  levels of ammonia. 

  Note, that letting feeder fish swim (and eliminate) in the
  turtle tank, raises ammonia level. Also, some dechlorinators
  also increase ammonia levels unless they include chemicals
  to break down the ammonia.

* A filter that has settled in, i.e. has been running for 4-6 weeks
  will eventually harbor enough bacteria that like ammonia and
  the levels will go down. Unfortunately, most filters are dirty
  and beyond use, and therefore in need of replacement, before
  that equilibrium is ever reached.
  Filtering over carbon and other specialized filter media also
  helps. I use a Fluval 4 submersible with carbon cartridges for
  about 20 gallons of water. (Rinse your filter with cold water
  only to preserve as much beneficial bacteria as possible.)

* I you are using a large cannister filter get one about 3-4 times
  as powerful as you would for an aquarium the same size.
  You will still have to clean/rinse the media more often than for a fish tank.

* Feeding your turtles outside the tank also reduces waste.
  Many turtles will eliminate shortly after eating. If you
  leave them in their feeding tub for a while after feeding,
  they will eliminate, and you get less waste in the tank.
  Not overfeeding will keep the waste down. 

* Adding a teaspoon of salt per gallon of water
  will reduce the level of "bad" bacteria and protect the
  turtles better from shell and skin diseases.

* A filter will not only reduce the frequency of water changes, it
  keeps the muck from floating around and being reingested by the
  animals.

* So, what filter should you use?
	1) as powerful as possible
	2) filter over mixed media (including carbon)
	3) Filter media must not be accessible to turtles
	   (they *will* eventually eat it).
  
* Here is a non-exhaustive list of filters. For more information,
  refer to an aquarium book or the rec.aquaria newsgroup. The latter
  has an extensive FAQ on Filters and water quality. A lot of what
  they say applies for turtles, too.

  1) Fluval submersible filters come in 4 sizes. The largest size
     is big enough for about 35 gallons of water with three turtles.
     Water changes every 7-14 days.
     Use the carbon cartridges.
     The Fluval 3 is ok for one turtle. 

  2) Fluval Cannister filters. Get the largest size you
     can afford. Filter over ceramic, carbon, and sponge and rinse frequently.

  3) Several brands of Power Filters. They are good, and easy to
     clean, but often they require a water level that is higher
     than you have in your turtle tank. They may also not have enough
     filtration media (but they do a good job at agitating the water).

  4) Undergravel filters. Not recommended as I don't recommend fine
     gravel, and messy when frequently changing the water completely.

* There is no need to dechlorinate the water. Anything suitable for human
  drinking is also suitable for turtles. Turtles are quite different from
  amphibians or fish in this regard.

* Changing the water: It is a good idea to set things up in a way that
  water changes become quick and simple. Invsting in some hoses and a pump
  is worth it. I use a powerhead with a hose to pump the water into the
  bathroom sink or the garden. When I was in an apartment, I pumped it over
  the balcony into the shrubs. (While the other shrubs dried out during the
  drought, the one under my balcony grew like crazy.) 
     Then I use a hose with a special adapter to run water from the tab into
  tank. Adapters are available at hardware of plumming stores. You can then
  connect a regular garden hose to the tab. 
     Make sure you empty the hose after use and store it in a place where it
  can dry out at least partially. Otherwise you get a lot of gunk growing in 
  it, if you only use it occasionally.
  There is a hose system called "Python" that you connect to a sink, then
  suck off the water and fill in the water, all no trouble. I love it!

Heaters and Temperature
=======================

* You can either heat the tank from inside the water or outside the
  tank.

* Heating pads. They are available at drug stores.
  Put under the tank and adjust level. They don't usually have a
  thermostat, so check the water temperature daily, and turn the pad
  on or off, depending on the weather. A timer is a great help, here.
  Best for smaller tanks where you can't put a heater.

* Heating Strips: a variation on pads. Usually not powerful enough for
  a turtle tank.

* Basking lamp. If your apartment is always warm, and you have just one
  small turtle in a small tank, the basking lamp, usually a 60W bulb,
  can suffice to keep the water warm.

* Submersible heaters. They are very efficient and come with a thermostat.
  But, the are made of glass and a turtle can break it. So, you need to
  protect the heater, for example behind some bricks or in a slotted
  plastic tube (see my setups).
  If the glass heater breaks, both you and your turtle can get electrocuted.
  You can make a protective corner for the heater using bricks or tiles.

* Check the literature for the correct temperature for your turtle. 
  Lower 80is is a good general range. The warmer the water
  the more active the turtles, but also the more bacteria in the water.

* Be sure the temperature is not too low, because it will put the turtle
  into a state, where it is too warm for hibernation and too cold to eat
  and move, and it will die. It is OK for the temperature to drop
  during the night, but you don't want it go go below about 65F.

* Again: Check the literature for specific information on temperatures
  that are correct for the species of water turtle you are keeping.

More on Lighting
================
* The basking light should be on about 12 hours a day. If you can vary
  it with the seasons, that's great. Turning it off at night provides
  a bit of cooling (the water heating still keeps the water warm).
  You can use a regular incandescent bulb or a ceramic heat bulb for
  a basking light. Make sure you use appropriate fixtures for the
  wattage.

* The fluorescent light should be on about 12-14 hours a day. Put
  the lights on timers. The fluorescent light should ideally be only
  a few inches away from the turtles when they are basking, and do not
  put the plastic cover on the hood! (It will filter the light.)
  Turtles need UVA and UVB light to make Vitamin D3; they are also
  more active if provided with fluorescent light. (So supplementing
  D3 isn't quite equivalent.)

* Read the sections on lighting and Vitamin D3 to find out more about
  why you need both a basking light and a fluorescent reptile light.


Basic Outdoor Setup
===================

* A children's wading pool in a yard or on a balcony makes
  a great home for a water turtle. Make sure it gets cleaned often enough
  and has sun and shade throughout the day. Put some rocks or logs into
  the pool, so the animal can climb out and bask. This is a summer setup
  only. In winter, this pool is not deep enough for proper hibernation,
  and without hibernation, it's too cold in most areas for the turtles to
  stay outside. 
    Make sure, the pool is high enough, so your turtle cannot escape. If 
  you provide a land area outside the pool, fence it properly. Most turtles
  climb surprisingly well, and they can dig, too!
    If there are any cats and raccoons in the area, cover the pool, or
  your pet will get eaten. Insect screen is good. Make a frame that fits
  the tub from 1x2s, then put screen on it. Then clamp it down. Racoons
  are very clever at getting to turtles.

* A pond of any size. Refer to a book on ponds to find out how to build
  a pond. 


Reader Hints
============

From: bytemare@lmn.pub.ro:
> 
> About the substrate in tank. I want to say that I put some thin green
> plastic mesh, the kind I used to put in the windows at summer 
> to prevent mosquitos from entering the room. It is green, so the
> turtles see it as vegetation I think, except they can't eat it :-) .
> It helps a lot cleaning the aquarium (I simply lift the mesh with
> all the stuff that fell on it). Also, it has sometimes to be kept
> down with some small rocks, but not too heavy, because my sliders
> have the habit of "digging" sometimes, and care should be taken so
> they cannot possibly get stuck under the mesh.
> 
> I have successfully used the same type of mesh on the interior of
> the back of the aquarium (where the background picture is).
> I have found that the turtles won't try to go thru the glass anymore,
> instead they will see the mesh and even use it to climb to the 
> surface, like mountain climbers :-). It is hard to keep the mesh
> sticked to the glass (if not, the turtles will find that they can go
> beyond it and will screw everything up).
>